Monday 13 September 2021

Life is not hurrying on …

Life is not hurrying on

to a receding future, nor hankering after
an imagined past

It is the turning
aside like Moses to the miracle
of the lit bush, to a brightness
that seemed as transitory as your youth
once, but is the eternity that awaits you

The Bright Field by RS Thomas

With thanks to Chris

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St Cuthbert’s Way is walked … 

#JobDone

The Way bridges the national border between Scotland and England, with a 62 miles cross-border route linking:

·         Melrose in the Scottish Borders, where St. Cuthbert started his religious life in 650AD; with

·         Lindisfarne off the Northumberland Coast, his eventual resting place and his original pilgrimage shrine.


The Reverend Susan’s Statistics are in & verified:

  • 16 Pilgrims; thirteen with 2 legs and three with 4
  • 584 miles walked in total; like walking from Brighton to the Way’s start at Melrose … and on to Inverness !
  • 61,000 feet climbed in total; the equivalent of climbing Everest … twice !

 St Cuthbert’s Way had all the features that every Pilgrimage should have.

ChallengeThose who walked from Kale Water, near Morebattle up Wideopen Hill – the highest point of the Way – will long remember that challenge; and the ‘yomp’ on to the Border Hotel in Kirk Yetholm for dinner at 6.30 !!

Life is not hurrying on

But it seemed like it that afternoon. 

A time to dig in and remember John Bunyan:

Though the hill is high, I still desire to walk up it.

I don't care how difficult it is, because I understand that it leads to the Way of life. 

The Pilgrim's Progress


The Lads taking a well-deserved drinks break


And then there were the intrepid Pilgrims who walked over the sands to reach Lindisfarne.




Congratulations to Chris, David & Roger who joined me in walking every step of the Way.


It is always a real privilege be outdoors for days at a time.

I was concerned about what the Weather might be like in the Scottish Borders …

But in the event we were blessed with beautifully sunny days throughout the walk.

Anoraks were only really needed on one afternoon.

Day 4  - over the hills from Kirk Yetholm to Hethpool and on to Wooler  - was said to be the hottest day in the Borders since 1906.

Naturally, there was stunning Scenery.

From the Start; walking up from Melrose up to the Eildon Hills:


Through the walk; on the Scotland - England border:



To the End; looking out from Holy Island:


Plenty of Rivers:

River Tweed

And where there are Rivers, there will be Bridges:

Old

Mertoun Bridge

And New

Crossing the River Teviot

Castles too :

Cessford Castle

As for Accommodation, this time we were based in and around Wooler.

Walking linearly for 62 miles, we were very reliant on our Director of Logistics for dropping off & picking up. Huge thanks to Dianne !

Homildon Cottage at High Humbleton was an excellent place to stay.




It had all the Essentials …

The Wash Room

My Progressing to Domesticity online course paid dividends – I didn’t need any help switching On the washing machine.

(OK; I did need my Director of Lavanderia Kate to show me how to turn it Off !!)

 

Elsewhere on the domestic duties – and much to my disappointment – the Homildon Team steadfastly refused to try out Division of Labour, Adam Smith’s theory from An Inquiry into the Nature and Causes of the Wealth of Nations:.

Dividing the production process into different stages enables workers to focus on specific tasks.

If workers can concentrate on one small aspect of production, this increases overall efficiency.

Everyone stuck to each making their own sandwiches !!


This Pilgrimage we didn’t have a Rest Day

But we did have a Rest Evening.

Nigel organised a guided tour of Berwick on Tweed, a must-visit town.

On the one hand little has changed in centuries in this left-behind part of England.

As we looked down the main street from the city walls built over 4 centuries ago during Elizabeth I's reign, the view painted by LS Lowry in 1935 was instantly recognisable:

 


On the other hand, our guide told of sweeping changes to the local economy over the centuries.

Who knew that in its Golden Age in the 12th Century, Berwick was one of only two royal burghs in Scotland, with one of the biggest ports in Britain.

For almost 200 years, merchants took wool and yarn to Flanders, France and beyond, with history claiming that the port generated a quarter of the equivalent tax revenue for all of England.

 

But  - far and away  - the most important feature of Pilgrimage is the Pilgrims.

Part of this year’s Pilgrimage was to celebrate 50 years of the Fitz Economists; Class of ’71.

Though the Economics has long been forgotten, we all knew that Aristotle was absolutely right:

Without Friends: no one would choose to live, though he had all other goods.

 Nicomachean Ethics

We were delighted to be joined for dinner at Homildon Cottage by Harry:


As transitory as your youth once, but is the eternity that awaits you

And throughout the week by our Wives !!

 


 

This walk’s Pilgrims included plenty of those familiar faces from Spain and Italy.

Max's Grandma & Grandad Wells

And we welcomed those on their first Pilgrimage, including David, our first Actuary, and Richard, our first Architect.


The Yates Smiths

And our first Pilgrims with 4 legs:

 

Enzo, Henri & Mylo

The Black Labs Mafia

 Did  I mention the communal dinners ...


... and the Pints at the End.

Black Bull Inn, Lowick

By journey’s end, all of us knew well that:

Pilgrimage isn't a speed competition or a race.

Rather it's a pathway of brotherhood and universality.

Pilgrim Inscription on Triacastela church on the Camino

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As one Pilgrimage ends, thoughts always turn to the next ones …

In 2022, there are plans to celebrate three score years and ten with a Pilgrimage in a Day in Sussex in June and then the Camino dos Faros in late September / early October.

 


I hope that you will be able to come along … …

 

Until then,

 

May the road rise up to meet you

May the wind be always at your back

May the sun shine warm upon your face

The rains fall soft upon your fields 

 

One stone from Rottingdean beach is now in the sea off Holy Island 

And until we meet again,

May God hold you safe in the palm of His hand. 

The Pilgrim’s Prayer

 

 Pilgrim Ric


PS 

Final Thought


High Street, Wooler 







 

Saturday 11 September 2021

Final - Day 6: Fenwick to Holy Island

 Day 6: Fenwick to Holy Island 

Miles: 6

Cum Miles: 62

Miles To Go: NA

% Complete: #JobDone

Pilgrims

Jan, Mark +Enzo, Karen, Richard + Henri

Chris W, Sarah, David, Chris G, Roger, Nigel, Kate, Dianne, Mylo & me

A 100% turnout for the final day out on St Cuthbert's Way. 

We soon got glimpses of Holy Island. 

And crossed the causeway; 8 (including Enzo & Henry) across the Sands. 


Time for a walk around the town, with End of Pilgrimage photos:


Black Lab Mafia  🐾🐾

Pint at the End: Black Bull Inn, Lowick

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My thanks to all the Pilgrims, especially to  Dianne who now has encyclopedic knowledge of the highways & byways of the Borders !! 

So another Pilgrimage ends ... 

Whether you walked every step... 

... or read the blog from far away, I hope that you'll agree with Dylan:

So ... 

Until we meet again

May God hold you 

Safe in the palm of his hand

Pilgrim Piper



PS

Look out for the End of Pilgrimage blog in a few days time. 




Thursday 9 September 2021

Day 5: Wooler to Fenwick

 Day 5: Wooler to Fenwick


Miles: 13

Cum Miles: 56

Miles To Go: 6

% Complete: 90%


Pilgrims

Jan, Mark +Enzo, Karen, Richard + Henri

Chris, Sarah, David, Roger, Mylo & me

From St Cuthbert's Cave - 4 miles: Dianne


The penultimate day out on The Way; and the Pilgrims are in good heart !

A dampish day today; anoraks on for much of the afternoon. 

We soon crossed our first river; the Wooler Water:


We had Elevenses by the Weetwood Bridge, which crosses the River Till, the only English tributary of the Tweed.

A very familiar figure along the Way ... 

On across moorland and fields, we had our picnic lunch at St Cuthbert's Cave, where we were joined by our Logistics Director for the remaining 4 miles to Fenwick.


Dinner: Chinese takeaway for 11 !!

Tomorrow is Journey's End ... 

Day 4: Kirk Yetholm to Wooler

 Day 4: Kirk Yetholm to Wooler

Miles: 13

Cum Miles: 44

Miles To Go: 18

% Complete: 72%


Pilgrims

To  Hethpool - 8 miles: Chris G, Jan, Mark +Enzo, Karen, Richard + Henri 

To Wooler: Chris, Sarah, David, Roger & me


We were joined by 7 new Pilgrims for the walk to Hethpool.

On another wonderfully sunny day, the word was this was the hottest day in the Borders since 1906  ☀ 

We soon reached the Scotland - England border.


As always on St Cuthbert's, tremendous views:

Lunch at College Burn

Then it was one more climb before a long ridge walk 

and the descent back to Homildon Cottage.

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The evening was spent in Berwick on Tweed, with a fascinating guided tour of the Elizabethan city walls.


Dinner: The Queen's Head, Berwick 

A Top Day out !!



Tuesday 7 September 2021

Day 3: Harestanes to Kirk Yetholm

Day 3: Harestanes to Kirk Yetholm 

Miles: 16

Cum Miles: 31

Miles To Go: 31

% Complete: 50%


Pilgrims

To Cessford - 8 miles: Kate, Nigel & Mylo

To Kirk Yetholm: Chris, David, Roger & me


Wonderful weather for an "exhilarating" walk !

Where there are Rivers...

... there are Bridges

Stunning views

Picnic at Cessford Castle

Then a very stiff climb up to Wideopen Hill, at 368 metres the highest point of the Way.

Pint & Dinner at the End: Border Hotel, Kirk Yetholm

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As we reach the 50% Completed, the traditional time for a song from the Summer of '61

I'm only halfway to paradise

So near, yet so far away

Halfway to Paradise by Billy Fury


All goes well out on the Way !!